The author is a Shan journalist who is receiving support from The Kite Tales to write these diaries.

It has been almost two years since the coup, and on the face of it things in Taunggyi have returned to something like bustling normality. It looks peaceful, a friend recently told me.

But while it may look like things are calm and peaceful in the Shan State capital at the moment, there are spies everywhere. Whether you're shopping, sitting at a tea shop, or walking down the street, you cannot afford to say or do the wrong thing.

If you talk about resistance forces or the National Unity Government in exile, you are likely to be arrested. It has become a situation where even neighbours can't trust each other.

The atmosphere in the city has become more hostile and this is mainly due to the formation last year of a militia group called Pyu Saw Htee, also known as Thway Thaut (Editor - Pyu Saw Htee is the name of an ancient Burmese king while Thway Thaut is literally translated as “blood drinkers” or sometimes interpreted as “blood-sworn”). 

My sources tell me this group was formed by supporters of the military and nationalists in Taunggyi, the capital of Shan State, and the town of Ayetharyar. They persuaded the neighbourhood thugs to join them. They became informants and many innocent people were arrested because of them. Even children were detained.

For example, anyone who took part in the civil disobedience movement or even just people who travel from home for any period risks being accused of supporting the People’s Defence Force resistance and arrested. Many have been put in jail this way. 

Because their actions are dangerous to ordinary people, some revolutionary groups started to assassinate them. But if these dalans (informants) die, the junta’s security forces become harsher and more restrictive, which again makes life difficult for people.
 
Life in Taunggyi was already heavily regulated even before this group was formed. Last February, the junta started collecting information on how many people were in each household. It was supposedly for elections, but many think it was a ploy to make a list of people to arrest. People who did not provide their household lists or guest registration forms were detained, including my acquaintances.

It wasn’t just the junta. There are various other armed militia groups who have been around for decades in Shan State and many are allied with the army. In early 2022, these groups started conducting strict checks on villagers, to the point where you could not leave your home or area without a certification of vaccination or an original ID. If they check and you don’t have those documents, you are fined 50,000 kyats (Editor: This is about $24 but a lot of money for ordinary people).

"I was interrogated by the militia. They threatened me with various dangers. They also told me that it could be worse if I meet with the Burmese army,” a friend who encountered the Pa-O militia told me.

As such inspections became stricter, it became more difficult for people to travel.

In Taunggyi it is very difficult to hold protests. In fact, it’s almost impossible. This is because the city is not only home to a military headquarters but soldiers also have already taken up positions all across the city.

At the entrance of Taunggyi, there are military units all along Shwe Nyaung - Aung Thaye Pyidaungsu Road.

To the south, there are the 212 Unit, the military security unit, and the communications unit. To the east, there is a secretive military unit. They surrounded the town and issued Section 144 (Martial Law) to prevent anyone from getting close.

In the northeast, there is an artillery unit which has seized and fenced off around 800 acres of land. After the coup, Section 144 was issued and no one could enter the land anymore.

The situation made me think of a comment by a lawyer in Taunggyi.

He said, “Martial law is no law. There is no rule of law under military rule.”

Artwork by JC who is receiving support from The Kite Tales to produce illustrations.